Constructed in Trevira-viscose twill, it fuses military formality with synthetic resilience—ideal for Finland’s urban transitional climates.

The KooPee trench coat, produced by K.P. Ruuskanen of Tampere, Finland, embodies the disciplined clarity and material-driven logic central to postwar Finnish utilitarian design. Operating within the broader context of Scandinavia’s industrial textile boom, the KooPee line reflects a mid-to-late 20th-century garment ethos defined by functional resilience, aesthetic restraint, and structural engineering adapted for transitional climates. Far removed from fashion-capital theatrics, this coat articulates the distinctly Northern European design intelligence that privileges permanence, formal containment, and the calibrated interplay of silhouette and material performance. Classified as a men’s single-breasted belted trench coat, the garment fuses the aesthetic grammar of militarized formalwear with climate-adapted engineering. Designed for urban civilian use, it balances tailored authority and environmental protection—its concealed placket, epaulettes, and angular collar encode discipline, while its tightly woven Trevira-viscose shell ensures resilience in wind and transitional rain. The garment’s silhouette is rectilinear and structured, preserving a columnar masculine line through minimal shaping and a cinchable belt, while shoulder breadth is visually emphasized through epaulette articulation and lapel scale. The color palette—a deep brown bordering olive-black—reinforces this stoicism, offering visual gravitas without ostentation. Technically, the coat is constructed with high industrial precision. Stitchwork is lockstitched throughout, with consistent seam alignment and uniform SPI (~3–3.5mm) across critical stress zones such as belt loops, pocket welts, and placket fold. All seams are cleanly topstitched, with visible box-end reinforcement at the welt pocket corners and bar-tacked structural junctions. Shoulder reinforcement is achieved through the integration of epaulettes directly into the sleeve-head seam, ensuring both visual symmetry and mechanical stability. The front closure is executed through a burrito-fold fly placket, requiring precise internal sequencing to preserve both windproofing and visual continuity. Belt and cuff tab attachments are double-stitched, with the belt panel featuring topstitched perimeter lines and a matching self-fabric rectangular buckle, backed internally with interfacing to maintain rigidity under tension. Pattern drafting adheres to the Northern European militarized coat lineage, with raglan-adjacent sleeve fall, set-in armholes, and structured collar scaling. The front body likely comprises a single-panel block with concealed darting below the storm fly, while the back is constructed from a central panel with no visible vent—indicating priority given to wind containment over mobility. Two-piece sleeves are cut with tailored pitch but without aggressive tapering, reflecting ergonomic rather than anatomical shaping. Waist suppression is managed entirely through the belt, preserving pattern efficiency and silhouette consistency. Interior finishing confirms professional industrial tailoring. The coat is fully bag-lined in a Trevira-viscose synthetic blend—lightweight, fluid, and thermally neutral—ideal for layering over suiting without friction or static buildup. Hem finishing is machine-executed, likely via blind anchor tacking at seam junctions to prevent distortion. Label application is functional rather than decorative: topstitched directly into the lining with clean rectangular anchoring. Internal welt pockets are reinforced with twin-needle bar tacks, mirroring the exterior structural discipline. The textile—a Trevira-branded 2/2 twill composed of 67% polyester and 33% viscose—is engineered for durability, wrinkle resistance, and environmental adaptability. The fabric presents a smooth surface with fine diagonal ridging and a moderate synthetic sheen. It behaves like cotton gabardine in silhouette retention and weatherproofing but offers greater dimensional stability and less maintenance. The fabric is likely calendered to heighten drape consistency and surface uniformity, producing a refined matte exterior suited to both professional and functional use. Its GSM (~240–280) situates it within the optimal range for urban trenchwear: dense enough to block wind, light enough for mobility. Comparative fabric analysis positions this Trevira twill between several heritage textile categories. Structurally, it echoes British cotton gabardine used in WWII-era trench coats, reinterpreted through mid-century Germanic and Scandinavian synthetics. In terms of handle and coloration, it shares affinities with French uniform fabrics from Rhodiaceta and German workwear textiles of the 1970s. The Trevira branding confirms origin from Central European mills known for synthetic tailoring innovations, with likely manufacturing links to Trevira GmbH (fiber supply), Carl Meiser (tailoring synthetics), and Getzner or Setex (woven outerwear coatings). The coat’s geometry is reinforced through its multi-panel configuration—front vertical panels, side-body shaping, and two-piece sleeves with eased crown insertion. Seams are plain stitched, overlocked or bias-bound internally, and topstitched externally for reinforcement and symmetry. The notched collar is sharply defined with extended lapel points, supported with fusible interfacing to maintain flatness and edge crispness. Epaulettes are installed with visible precision and sit flush across the shoulder line, visually reinforcing the coat’s upper-body geometry. Cuff tabs are functional and secured by either button or adjustable hardware, not visible but assumed given the tailoring logic. Hem treatment is straightforward: a machine-folded and blind-stitched finish ensures alignment without weight distortion. Conceptually, the coat operates within the psychological language of postwar protection: order, containment, and structural assurance. Its military semiotics—belt, epaulettes, lapel breadth—invoke command, while the concealed placket, tone-on-tone finishing, and synthetic uniformity subdue the expression of force into utility. The garment’s austerity is its elegance. It is not expressive but declarative, grounded in values of discretion, longevity, and composure. Such symbolic weight aligns with Finland’s design culture of the 1960s–80s, where architectural, furniture, and textile traditions all prized silent formalism over stylistic bravado. Historically, the coat dates to the late 1970s or early 1980s, evidenced by the Trevira label typography, synthetic fiber content, and structural cues. It mirrors similar civilian-military hybrids from East Germany, Austria, and Sweden, when urban outerwear adopted performance synthetics without abandoning tailored coherence. K.P. Ruuskanen Oy, through the KooPee line, positioned itself within this domestic shift—bringing institutional fabrication logic to a consumer context increasingly defined by professional mobility and climate adaptability. Today, this coat aligns with archival revivals of 1970s formal outerwear, particularly within circles invested in workwear minimalism, military tailoring, and synthetic material innovation. Its silhouette, construction clarity, and material honesty echo contemporary work by brands such as Nanamica, Auralee, or Sefr—labels that reinterpret militarized elegance through quiet precision. As a vintage garment, it retains commercial viability for slow fashion curation, boutique archival resale, or as a reissue blueprint for heritage-informed outerwear. For collectors, designers, and retailers alike, it serves as a case study in Nordic rationalism applied to urban climatewear—a garment that communicates authority through form, endurance through fabrication, and dignity through absolute structural control.

Measurements (cm):
Chest: 56
Length: 104
Shoulder: 46
Sleeve: 62



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: L
EU Men’s Size: 50


SKU: 015005